Practice Correct Tree Planting

Trees provide many things for our communities and us: beauty; energy conservation from shading and wind protection; reduction of soil erosion; the filtering of air pollutants; raising of property values; a home for wildlife; and a place to hang a swing. Trees are an integral part of our home landscapes and neighborhoods.

Planting trees can literally help us to set down our roots at a home. However planting trees properly is crucial to the long-term survival of the tree. One of the main improper practices in planting trees today is planting too deep.

Many trees we purchase have the root collar buried in the rootball. If this excess soil is not removed, the root collar "suffocates" from excess soil resulting in a disruption of water and nutrient uptake, starting a downward spiral for the tree. The root collar is the area where the roots meet the trunk commonly identified by a flaring of the trunk.

Why are trees being planted too deep? One explanation is that people do not pay close attention to root location during planting. The problem can be traced back to nursery practices. When cultivating between rows, nurseries often build up soil around the trunk. When the trees are transplanted the root collar will be buried sometimes as much as 6 to 9 inches.

To ensure your tree is not planted too deep, do not follow the common recommendation of planting the tree at the same soil level that was found in the purchased balled and burlaped tree.

During planting remove the twine around the trunk, peel the burlap back and remove it if possible. Snip off wire baskets if necessary. Then gently scrape away excess soil with a trowel to reveal the root collar. When planted at the proper depth the root collar (trunk flare) should be visible. If the trunk enters the ground as straight as a telephone pole, the tree has been planted too deep.

Other tree planting tips:

• Dig the hole as deep as the root ball and no deeper so the soil under the root ball is undisturbed. This will prevent the tree from settling.

• Dig a hole two to three times as wide as the root ball. This will allow roots to grow more easily into this area.

• Do not add soil amendments. Old recommendations for adding soil amendments such as peat moss have been discarded. Simply use the soil removed from the hole as backfill.

• Prune only broken or dead branches at planting time. Removing live branches removes a source of stored energy important in overcoming planting stress. Start pruning for good structure in a year or two once the tree is better established. Pruning for a strong tree framework goes a long way in preventing future problems.

• Stake trees only when needed as in windy or high traffic areas. Wire even if protected with garden hose can damage the trunk. Use broad-banded materials, check frequently and remove after one year.

• Wait a year to fertilize unless using a slow release fertilizer.

• Add 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as wood chips. Mulch should not contact the trunk. Mulch helps to conserve soil moisture, eliminates harmful competition from turf and keeps lawnmowers and weed whips from damaging the trunk.

• Do not wrap trees during the growing season. Wrap can hold moisture next to the trunk and serve as a home for insects. If rodents are a problem, use wire mesh cylinders around the trunk.

• Don’t forget the most important first step - select the proper tree. Avoid the "it’s so pretty" impulse purchase. Do your homework. Select a tree with the correct mature height and one that will easily adapt to the soil and planting site.

A properly planted tree may be our best legacy.